Tuesday 29 May 2012

What's been serving on this side of the Atlantics

Yogurt dill potato salad, garlic tomatoes with balsamic vinegar glaze, cucumber slices in dill vinaigrette
Best potato salad I've had. What a revelation to use yogurt instead of mayo in the salad. Not only does it add the tang and the flavor to the salad, but also it is much healthier. No more mayo in my potato salad!


Brown butter and raspberry muffin cake (adapted from Baking Bites). 
To tell you a secret, I am muffin shy. It just never works for me. Not sure where the problem stems from, but a muffin recipe baked in individual muffin moulds always turn out to be flat (dome-less) and dry for me. That's why I always bake it whole in a cake tin. I replaced 1/2 cup of flour with ground almond and topped the muffin cake with raspberries. The cake is tender, moist, not overly sweet, just the right balance for me as    a breakfast cake.


 Raspberry tiramisu (adapted from Nigel Slater).
I soaked the lady fingers with Earl Grey tea, instead of booze. The citrusy note of Earl Grey goes pretty well with raspberries and lifts up the good old tiramisu. My kind of summery tiramisu!

Afternoon tea at Connaught
My birthday tea, with Picasso exhibit to finish. Both marvellous. My ideal day!

Sunday 20 May 2012

I make - Strawberry Rhubarb Confiture

I have been busy canning this year. The successful batches include quince jelly, strawberry jam (detailed in this post) and sriracha. The much less satisfying experiments are forest fruit jam (great taste but turned out to be coulis) and three-fruit marmalade (bitter and refused to jell). You can see that my main problem of making jam was to set it correctly. All changed after I got myself a candy thermometer. You've got to respect the good old chemistry.

When it comes to bottle flavors in a jar, it's hard to beat Christine Ferber. Her unique way of making jam usually consists of three stages: maceration, repeated boiling and resting, and a final boil. The whole process can take up to three days, even though the active time is much less than that. This is not about being frugal and using up the excess in the kitchen. This woman has thought long and hard about flavor conservation. Her unique (3-stage) method yields jams with the most vibrant and intense fruit flavor I have ever tasted. This is, without a doubt, an artisan way of conserve making.

Over the years, I have distilled the essence of her method and simplified into just one afternoon exercise. I don't claim that the simplified method produces jam comparable to hers. However, if you only have time and patience for an afternoon, my adaptation works out pretty well too.


Strawberry Rhubarb Confiture (adapted from Christine Ferber)

- 400 g strawberries, washed, hulled and roughly chopped into big chunks
- 400 g rhubarb, washed and cut into 1-cm dices
- 400 g granulated sugar (adjust the sugar to the sweetness of your fruit and taste)
- juice from one big lemon

In a large cooking ware (I used a Pyrex round casserole. Any nonreactive bowl would do), layer in the strawberries, rhubarb and sugar. I started with sugar on the bottom, then a layer of strawberries, another layer of sugar and so on, until you finish all the fruit and sugar. Use a large spoon to mix everything gently but thoroughly . Let the fruit macerate in the sugar for at least one hour. Longer or overnight (as Christine Ferber suggested) even better.

After one hour, the fruit should almost submerge in the water coming out during the maceration process. Scoop out the fruit and leave them aside. Add the lemon juice to the pot and place the pot over high heat and bring it to a lively boil. When bubbling hot, tip in the fruit and cook the fruit along with the juice for three minutes. At this stage, scoop out of the fruit again. Continue to boil the pot of fruity syrup until a candy thermometer reads 105C (~220F). Just let you know that a setting temperature of 105C yields jams tasted a bit too soft for me, so I always boil the syrup to 110C to produce a slightly firmer texture I prefer. If this is your first time, start with 105C this batch and decide what to do next.

When the internal temperature of syrup reaches a desirable setting temperature, put the fruit back to the pot and bring the pot back to a boil again. Here is what Christine Ferber said: "Watch the bubbles in the boil as you stir. Foam will form because the water in the fruit is drawn out, to be replaced with the syrup. In about 10 minutes, when the confiture is almost ready, the foam will begin to dissipate, the bubbles breaking more slowly and exposing a clear syrup below. Turn off the heat. Let the bubbling stop. The fruit should have absorbed the syrup and be suspended through the jam. If the fruit is floating, return it to the heat for another 2 minutes of boiling." Who am I to argue with the conserve queen? I followed her recommendations to the T.

Spoon the finished jam into sterilized jars. Fill a jar all the way just under the cap rim. Screw the caps tightly while the jam is hot.

Wednesday 16 May 2012

I make - Basque chicken

I love one-pot dinner. Although I enjoy cooking, like any working person, at the end of a day I just want something warm, tasty and quick. A dish that has both meat and veggie components and does not require me thinking too much fits the bill. Basque chicken is one example. Visually appealing and with all my favorite chicken combo ingredients, chorizo and paprika, it's one of my favorite dishes.


Basque chicken

- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 large onion, sliced
- 3 sweet bell peppers, mixed color, in thin slices
- 100 g chorizo, skinned and cut into large dices
- 3 garlic cloves, crushed
- 2 tsp paprika
- 1 tin of crushed tomato (~400g)
- 1/2 tsp dry thyme
- 2 bay leaves
- 3 chicken pieces, thigh or drumsticks*
- salt and pepper to taste

Lightly season the chicken with paprika, salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Brown the chicken in a pan of hot olive oil. Remove the chicken from the pan while you cook the vegetables.

In the same pan, fry the onions and peppers with the thyme and bay leaves for 3 minutes or more, until onions are translucent. Add the chorizo cubes and garlic and fry for 2 minutes more. Add the tomatoes and chicken drum sticks. Bring the pan back to boil, stirring regularly. Cook the mixture for 10 minutes, lid on, until vegetables and chicken are tender. Season with salt and pepper.

Great with steamed rice.

*I sometimes use rotisserie chicken pieces found in my local supermarket and skip the browning stage. Just throw them in with the tomatoes.

Monday 14 May 2012

I bake - Orange scented crème caramel

I have been playing with crème caramel for the past month. I think this is it. To create a silky, smooth and pleasantly rich texture a crème caramel should have, I have worked out the required portion of cream vs milk, baking time and temperature to create crème I like. Another question that was bugging all the time was how much sugar I need to create the caramel for my ramekins. Instead of using cups or grams measure, I use tablespoon per ramekin as a guide. The unit of sugar should be enough to cover the base of your ramekin completely, not just barely. For my ramekins which are of regular size (9.5cm in diameter and 5.5cm in height), it works out one tablespoon of sugar which is sufficient to create the caramel to coat the bottom of a ramekin.

The flavor of crème caramel I came across by chance and now love is by Simon Hopkinson. The combination of orange and caramel works wonder in my mouth. If you are a traditionalist, just skip orange and up the vanilla.

Orange scented crème caramel

For caramel
- 6 tbsps caster sugar (I use one tbsp of sugar per ramekin as a guide)
- 1 tbsp water

For orange scented crème
- 5 eggs
- 1 1/2 milk and 1/2 cup double cream (the total liquid is 2 cups or 500ml which is 100ml per egg)
- zest from one orange
- 2 tbsps caster sugar
- 1 tsp vanilla extract

You need six ramekins for this recipe.

First, prepare the orange scented milk. Put milk, cream, orange zest, caster sugar and vanilla extract in a pot. Bring it to simmer (when tiny bubbles start to rise from the edges). Turn off the heat. Put the lid on. Let the scenting process begin. The original recipe suggests steeping for at least one hour and I dully oblige.

While that is happening, prepare caramel. Put the sugar into a heavy-based saucepan and add 1 tablespoon of cold water. Bring to an animated boil and watch carefully until the sugar has turned to light to medium amber color with a pleasing smell of, well, caramel. Swirl the pan when necessary if caramelization does not happen evenly. Once it's done, immediately pour into six ramekins. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 150C and put your kettle on for some hot water.

Beat the eggs lightly in a roomy bowl. Strain the orange-infused milk into the eggs. Gently beat the mixture together until well combined. Strain the custard mixture through a fine-mesh sieve.

Ladle the mixture into the caramel-lined ramekins. Place them into a deep roasting tin and fill with hot (not boiling) water, so that it rises up the outside of the molds by about three-quarters of the way up. Carefully place the tin into the oven. Bake in the oven until the custards are just set (about 35-40 minutes).

How do you know when it's done? You could give them a little shake; they should gently wobble in a regular pattern. That means custard is set. Under-set custard will jiggle in an irregular way.

Remove the ramekins from the water bath. Let them cool completely in room temperature. Cover them with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least a day before consumption.

Saturday 12 May 2012

Dîner chez moi - 12-18 May

Saturday: Basque styled fish gratin, Persian jewelled rice, cucumber, coriander and tomato salad (this is another salad I keep coming back. the combined flavour is so much more than just adding the individual ingredients alone. you have to like coriander though, which is the case in the house hold).

Sunday: Pork ribs slow-cooked in barbecue sauce, cucumber, coriander and tomato salad, crusty bread

Monday: Sardine pasta with capers, chilli and tomato (I don't seem to get tired of this dish, such a tasty and quick pasta)

Tuesday: Basque chicken, Persian jewelled rice.

Wednesday: Caramelised onion and pea pasta, deli ham slices.

Thursday: Same as Tuesday

Friday: wild card

Sunday 6 May 2012

I bake - Raspberry clafoutis

I discovered Clafoutis with my mother-in-law. A typical dessert from French central region, Limousin, is traditionally made with cherries, baked in a custard-like batter. Personally I fall for anything with custard. Not surprisingly, I took in clafoutis with all my heart.

Funny enough, in her own family, she is the only one who like clafoutis. None of the family members, including my hubby, shares her adoration for clafoutis. When she knows that I also like it, I can see that she is happy to have someone sharing her cherry clafoutis. And I understand the need and the joy to share something you like. On top of that, I really like it.

This is my version, with raspberries and not so much flour. The end result is light, fruity, vanilla-y, delicate and sweet, like a dessert should be. This is to maman, who is also from Limousin, has a heart as tender as Clafoutis.



Raspberry clafoutis

- 2 eggs
- 1/3 cup caster sugar, plus additional to coat the baking dish
- pinch of salt
- 1 cup of milk
- 2 tbsps double cream
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 3 tbsps all-purpose flour (or cornstarch)
- 200 g raspberries (fresh or frozen)

Preheat the oven to 200C. Butter a 20x20cm round or square dish. Dust caster sugar all around the bottom and the sides. Leave it aside while you prepare the light batter.

In a bowl, whisk together eggs and sugar until sugar is fully dissolved. Add in milk, cream and vanilla extract.  Whisk all together gently to mix all liquids together. Sift in the flour into the bowl of egg and milk mixture. Stir to combine. Make sure no flour lump is present in the end.

Cover the bottom of the buttered dish with raspberries. If you use frozen raspberries, there is no need to defrost them. Arrange them like the fresh ones. Pour the batter into the baking dish.

Bake at 200C for 40 minutes. Take it out of the oven when clafoutis puffs up on the edges. Best served lukewarm or room temperature.

Saturday 5 May 2012

Dîner chez moi - 5-11 May

Saturday: Red mullet in tomato and porcini sauce, crusty baguette, raspberry clafoutis

  A typical Ligurian dish, I was told, has both sea and mountain flavors in one dish, just like its geographical location, Liguria.

Sunday: a day in London

Monday: Roasted pork ribs with home-made barbecue sauce, steamed green beans

Tuesday: Mushroom and shallot quiche with bacon bits

Wednesday: Broccoli pasta, Serrano ham slices

  I first discovered this dish by watching an Italian police TV series, Commisario Moltalbano. Then I turned to my Italian cookbook which says this way of mixing broccoli and pasta can be found all over southern Italy. There are basically two versions, with or without anchovies. I opted for the simplest version, with just a hearty amount of chopped garlic, a customisable pinch of chili flakes and half a onion. My version is very similar to Rachel's from rachel eats, one of my recent favorite finds.

Thursday: Same as Tuesday

Friday: wild card

Friday 4 May 2012

C'est la vie

I don't know about you but I consciously divide my professional work into three categories:

Work I am paid to do (daily grind)
Work I like to do (life savior)
Work I wait until the last minute to do (we all have a few baddies, no?)

Not surprisingly I follow my own unspoken 40-60 rule at the work place; 40% of the working time on daily grind and 60% on life savior. This is the balance which works for my sanity and my house (and for my employer too).

So it's a bit embarrassing to admit that I actually quite enjoy what I am paid to do recently. My 40-60 rule has gone out of the window for the time being. Now it's almost entirely daily grind and what a lovely one. What's happening? I am not sure. Maybe it's some mystical celestial power from my birthday month. Who knows?

I shall enjoy this time as long as it lasts.

Tuesday 1 May 2012

Happy birthday to me

I only have my mother (and my dad) to thank for on this today. Thank you for bringing me to this world. I feel very lucky to be your child.



3 tbsp pine nuts (I used pecan nuts)
2 medium carrots (approx. 200-250g)
75g golden sultanas (I used raisins)
60ml rum
150g caster sugar (I used 100g)
125ml regular olive oil (I used 100ml)
1 tsp vanilla extract
3 eggs
250g ground almonds
½ tsp ground nutmeg, or to taste
½ lemon, finely grated zest and juice

Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/Gas 4. Line the base and the sides of a 23cm/9in round springform cake tin with re-usable non-stick silicone liner.

Grate the carrots in a processor or with a coarse grater, then sit them on a double layer of kitchen paper and wrap them, to soak up excess liquid. Set aside.

Put the raisins in a small saucepan with the rum, bring to the boil, then turn down and simmer for 3 minutes.

Whisk the sugar and oil until creamily and airily mixed. Whisk in the vanilla extract and eggs and, when well whisked, fold in the ground almonds, nutmeg, grated carrots, rum-soaked raisins* (with any rum that clings to them) and, finally, the lemon zest and juice.

Scrape the mixture into the prepared cake tin and smooth the surface with a rubber spatula. The batter will be very shallow in the tin.

Arrange the pecan nuts over the cake in a pretty fashion and put it into the oven for 30–40 minutes, or until the top is risen and golden and a skewer inserted into the centre comes out sticky but more or less clean.

Remove from the oven and let the cake sit in its tin on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then unspring and leave it on the rack to cool.

I mixed some lemon curd with Greek yogurt to ice my cake. However, I have to admit that nothing beats Mascarpone laced with a dash with rum. Will try that next time!

*I accidentally added all raisins and the excess rum which was not absorbed by the raisins. The cake still turned out all right.