Wednesday, 10 May 2017

Pâté aux pommes de terre

Limousin, in the geographical center of France, was where M-T lived all her life. Perhaps not very well known to the outside world, its countryside is one of the most beautiful I've seen. Lush with green fields, undulating roads along the valleys with countless rivers streaming through and an unmistakable sense of calm and tranquility. I always feel I am part of nature when I go there, not the other way around.

Limousin has brought a few things to the culinary world, one of the areas M-T was an expert, Clafoutis, Creusois, Madeleines, chestnuts in various forms and Pâté aux pommes de terre. I've eaten them many times, both homemade or store-bought. They are honest, hearty food from the countryside. Nothing fancy, just with good ingredients and simple manipulation. What would be a better way to remember M-T by learning and writing about Limousin cuisine? After all, I picked my first chestnut and walnut there. I also remember picking summer berries and turned them into jars of jam with M-T by my side. This post is about Pâté aux pommes de terre, humble potato pie. No Cheese, just with a little bit cream and wrapped in light brioche dough (pâte levée). For me, this is very Limousin, very M-T. They do the best with what they have and share wholeheartedly with people they love.


Pâté aux pommes de terre

For the pâte levée (1 pie mold of 25-28 cm):

- 1 tablespoon of sugar (15g)
- 1 tsp fast action yeast
- 100 ml lukewarm milk
- 1 egg
- 250 g flour (plain, strong or a mix)
- 1 tsp salt
- 50-100 g melted butter

For the filling:

- 500-800 grams of potatoes (depending on how tall you want your pie to be)
- 125 ml creme fraiche
- 1 tablespoon of garlic powder (or two cloves)
- 3 tablespoons of minced shallots (or onions)
- parsley to your taste
- 1/2 teaspoon of thymes (optional)
- 1 beaten egg to glaze
- 1/2 tsp salt
- freshly ground pepper

Mix yeast and sugar in a bowl and drizzle in half of the milk. Stir to dissolve the sugar and yeast. Tip in flour.

In the same milk mug, beat in one egg.  Pour the whole milk-egg liquid into the flour bowl. Mix everything well to form a rugged ball. Tip in the salt and stir again. If the dough seems dry, add a tablespoon of water (or milk) a time to help mixing. Rest the dough for 30 minutes (optional).

After resting, beat in melted butter into the dough. Knead the dough until all butter is absorbed. Smooth the dough surface as much as you can and let it proof for 1-2 hours until the size doubles. Two amounts of butter are given. Both produce flavorful crust. I used 100g for the picture.

In the mean time, prepare your potato slices. Peel the potatoes and slice thinly with a knife or a mandolin. Mix together with garlic powder (or fresh garlic puree), 3 tablespoons of minced shallots, chopped parsley (of any amount you like) and 125ml of creme fraiche. Dry the potato slices lightly with paper towels and pour in the creme fraiche mixture. Season the potatoes with salt and a few grinds of pepper. Mix thoroughly and gently with your fingers to distribute the seasonings equally.

Divide the proofed dough into two portions (roughly 40-60 split). The smaller portion is for the top crust and the bigger one is for the base. Roll both dough pieces out, the bigger portion to fit the bottom of your pie dish, the smaller one to fit the top. Make sure the dough goes up at least half way to the side of the pie dish to hold the potato slices. Transfer the dough to line the base of your pie dish. Fill the covered pie dish with potato slices. Cover the potato slices with remaining pie dough. The two pieces of dough may overlap. Draw the two pieces together to close the gap.

Use the tip of the knife to create small holes on the top of the pie crust and brush with the beaten the egg. In an oven preheated at 180C, bake the pie uncovered for 1 hour. If the top becomes too dark, cover it with a piece of foil (and lower the temperature to 160C).

Serve warm with a good limousin green salad with mustardy vinaigrette.

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